Velvety Mushroom Soup

I always crave soup this time of year...the weather is chilly, and a nice bowl of hot soup warms me up and just hits the spot.  I've been making a lot of butternut squash variations, spicy pumpkin and hearty chili.  I was looking for something new to try.

I'm in love with a book I "borrowed" from my sister (you have to actually give it back for it to be considered borrowing, and I'm not sure I'm there just yet!).  It's called Fresh Happy Tasty, by Jane Coxwell.  She was the personal chef to Diane Von Furstenberg, and I share her approach to cooking: real food, fresh ingredients, simple preparation.

While reading it cover to cover, I spied a mushroom soup recipe that was described so beautifully that I knew I had to try it.  I made just a couple changes (I added some goat yogurt, used a large shallot instead of red onion and added a little more oil when sautéing the veggies), but either way, it's so perfect and simple that I wanted to share it with you.

I was first struck by the fact that she broiled the mushrooms; this brings out all their warm, earthy flavor.  I usually sauté my veggies when I make soup, but I was excited to try this method.  Toss a pound of sliced mushrooms with some olive oil, fresh thyme leaves and sea salt (Jane loves Maldon sea salt, and I do too - its large flakes give wonderful flavor).

Lay the mushrooms out on a baking sheet and broil for about 10-15 minutes, tossing occasionally, until browned, being careful not to burn them.

When mushrooms are done, place in a medium saucepan with any of the juice from the pan and a little olive oil.  Add chopped shallots (or red onion) and a few cloves of garlic.  Saute until the shallot is softened, stirring occasionally so garlic doesn't burn.  As far as chopping goes, you're going to puree this, so you can do a bit of a large chop, so nothing burns.

When shallots are soft, add enough broth to cover.  I used 2 1/2  cups of chicken broth (you can keep it vegetarian by using vegetable broth).  I ended up adding another 1/4 cup when I pureed it to get the consistency I liked.  Bring this to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes.

Transfer to a blender and puree for at least 2-3 minutes until velvety smooth.  If patience is not your strong suit (like me), you're probably used to just blending it until everything is combined.  But trust me on this one....let it go for a few minutes and it becomes so silky and delicious.  Jane says about most of her pureed soups, "when you think it's smooth enough, blend even more."  She's absolutely right!

Now this is where I like to play, and encourage people in my cooking classes to taste and balance their flavors.   A soup or sauce is a great place to start learning about adding elements to create the perfect taste.  You can see what I added below, but start playing this little game with yourself: taste the soup, and then add a pinch of salt.  Taste it again and see how the flavors have woken up.  Try a little acid - vinegar, citrus juice, yogurt - and see what that does to the flavors.  If you're nervous about ruining a whole pot of your soup, put a little into a small bowl and play with just that amount.  When you've figured out your secret formula, then you can add it to the pot.

I added goat yogurt (has a nice tanginess about it, and is tolerated by most people with lactose issues), some lemon juice, and a pinch of salt.  And viola!  A little bit of sourdough and I was in heaven.  A perfect lunch to get me ready for wrapping Christmas gifts!  Speaking of, this would be a nice addition to your usual Christmas Eve dinner - maybe little mushroom soup shooters to start the meal.....

Velvety Mushroom Soup
Serves 2-3

1 lb. sliced cremini mushrooms
leaves from 4 sprigs of thyme
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon
1/2 cup chopped shallots
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 1/2 cup chicken broth, plus extra for desired consistency during puree
1 tablespoon plain goat yogurt
Juice of half a lemon
Sea salt and pepper to taste
Goat yogurt and thyme leaves to garnish

• Preheat broiler
• Toss mushrooms, thyme, salt and 1/4 cup olive oil in a large bowl.
• Place in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil, turning occasionally, about 15 minutes until browned, being careful not to burn.
• Heat remaining tablespoon of oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat.  Add mushrooms and any of their juices from the pan, shallot and garlic.  Saute, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, about 3-5 minutes.
• Add 2 1/2 cups broth, or enough to cover mushrooms.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes.
• Transfer to blender, add goat yogurt and lemon juice and puree 2-3 minutes until velvety smooth, adding more broth if needed to reach desired consistency.
• Season to taste with salt and pepper to your taste.
• Garnish with a dollop of yogurt and a couple small thyme sprigs.

Roasted Grape & Pancetta Risotto

I went to the farmers' market the other day (one of my favorite things to do) and met a farmer who still had grapes.  He told me that in Northern California we have about one more month of red seedless grapes, so I bought a bunch.  I like to eat seasonally (have you heard?), so when I hear or know that I have months to wait for a sweet taste of something, I have to try to get it while I can.

Here's the other thing about me: I like to do things out of the ordinary with the food I buy.  Not always, but sometimes.  And this was one of those times. I bought enough grapes to just enjoy them as they are, to freeze them on a sheet pan for a little frozen treat later, but I was still left with about a pound.  What to do?

Roast them!

 

 

I know it sounds weird, but why not?  I roast veggies all the time to bring out all the sweet loveliness, but what would happen if you roasted some fruit?  Well it just brings out even more sweetness, and gives it a little bit of earthiness, too.

 

 

Now what to do with them?  It's cold, I need a little comfort food, so...... risotto.

 

 

People seem to be intimidates by risotto.  Not sure why.  Did someone give us the idea that it was really hard, so we would end up paying top dollar for it in restaurants and be impressed by it when people cooked it for us???  It's actually really easy.  But it does take some patience and attention - you know one of those is not high up there in my wheel house (guess which one!?).  But if I can do it, you surely can!

 

 

I always start risotto with butter and olive oil.  Then I add chopped onions and garlic.  This time I also added pancetta.

 





 

 

Next comes the Arborio rice.  I add it to the skillet and let it toast for a few minutes, stirring it every once and a while.  Oh yeah, here's a thing:  I used to cook my risotto in a large saucepan.  Not sure why, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.  My mom questioned my method (but then when doesn't she?), and said she uses a skillet.  Thankfully she doesn't read my blog (somehow to "techie" for her), so I can safely say... shhhhhh...she was right.  Use a skillet.  I like to use my cast iron (of course).  It provides a nice even heat and lets all of the Arborio have a chance to swim around in the broth you're about to add.

 

 

 

Now most people will add wine here, before adding the broth.  And I used to do that too (of course you're going to do what everyone else does).  But a couple summers ago I was doing a demo at the Union Street Festival in San Francisco and was testing one of my risotto recipes over and over to get it right.  A chef friend I knew suggested that I skip the wine and add vinegar at the very end.  I tried it, and it was genius (and delicious!).  So skip the wine (save it to drink!), and start adding broth.

 

 

 

You want to be sure that your broth is warm; keep it at a simmer in a pot next to your skillet.  Start with a cup once your rice is nice and toasty, and you continue to add a cup as the liquid evaporates.  This whole process will take from 30-45 minutes.

 

 

You want to wait until the liquid is completely evaporated before you start adding another cup Here's where it helps to be ambidextrous, which I'm not (if I try to stir the risotto with my left hand, most of it ends up on the stove top).  You have to stir constantly . Again, I learned this through trial and error.  Well, more error than trial.  That same chef friend I knew, who told me about the vinegar in lieu of wine trick, also taught me that if I stir my risotto constantly (instead of during commercials), I get a much better, creamier consistency.

 

After about 30 minutes you can see it really come together; it's getting creamier, the rice is puffing up, and if you taste it, it's almost there, just a little "toothy" (my super fancy culinary term for "almost done").  That's when I add a little half and half and cheese - this time I used Gruyere, but you can use any hard cheese like Parmesan or Asiago.

 

And because I like to introduce color (and fiber) into my dishes, I added some baby spinach, too.

 

 

After the spinach wilts, I add a hit of apple cider vinegar and fold in the roasted grapes.  The sweet of the grapes marries so beautifully with the saltiness of the pancetta. I just had to hit it with a little freshly cracked pepper (OK and a smidge of salt - I can't help it!)

 

This is happiness in a bowl, my friends.....

 

 

Roasted Grape & Pancetta Risotto

Serves 4

 

1 lb. red seedless grapes, halved

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 oz. pancetta, chopped

6 cups vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice

1/4 cup half & half

1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Sea salt & pepper to taste

Chopped chives for garnish

• Preheat oven to 400.
• Placed grape halves on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes.  Remove from oven and set aside.
• Heat oil and butter in a large skillet over medium high heat.
• Add onion and sauté 5 minutes until lightly softened.
• Meanwhile bring broth to a simmer in a saucepan over medium low heat, and keep at a low simmer.
• Add garlic to onions and continue cooking, stirring occasionally for 1 minute.
• Add pancetta and stir to combine.  Continue cooking, stirring often for 2-3 minutes.
• Add rice and stir to coat.  Let toast, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes.
• Add a cup of hot broth to skillet and stir constantly until liquid is absorbed.
• Add another cup of broth when all liquid is absorbed and continue stirring.
• Repeat this process until rice is puffy and tender,
• Stir in half and half and roasted grapes and cook an additional 3 minutes.
• Add cheese and stir to combine.
• When cheese is melted into the rice, add vinegar.
• Season to taste with salt and pepper
• Garnish with chopped chives.

 

Cook Happy!



Deconstructed Lasagna

My sister was out of town and my brother-in-law had a business dinner, so I went over to cook dinner for my nephew Cameron the other night.  He has Type 1 diabetes, so I wanted to fix him a hearty, kid-friendly meal that would also help keep his blood sugar in check.  Whether you have type 1 diabetes, type 2, or no diabetes, we all need to keep our blood sugar balanced.  They key to this is to start with a healthy fat coupled with a quality, lean protein and add some complex carbs.

So with this in mind, and the knowledge that my sister's cleaning woman was coming the next day, I decided on a one pot meal: a deconstructed lasagna.  I can be a real tornado in the kitchen, but I needed to keep it clean (for Rosa's sake), so I turned to my favorite kitchen pal, the cast iron skillet.  I can start my meal on the stovetop and then finish it off in the oven.

I started out with some olive oil in the skillet (healthy fat) and added grass-fed ground beef (quality, lean protein...remember that's the foundation for the blood sugar thing).  Then the first complex carbs (the final component in the blood sugar balancing act), onions and garlic (lots of it!).

When the meat is nicely browned (you can use ground turkey, pork or chicken in this, whatever you like) and the onions are soft, I added some basil and oregano, a ton o' tomatoes (canned, since the season is gone....sigh) with their juice and some part-skim ricotta.

Now here's where I made a little mistake.  The last time I fixed Cameron dinner, he inquired about one of the ingredients, either the mushrooms or the spinach.  As in "Are those mushrooms?" with a 15-year-old's snarl.  I simply said, "Yes, and they're good."  Turns out I think he asked about the spinach, because when he saw this dish he said (with the same snarl), "Is that spinach?"  Again, I said, "Yes, and it's good."  To which he scrunched up his face and said, "I can't eat spinach."  Not that he's allergic (he wishes!), but he thinks he doesn't  like it (along with most veggies, I later found out).  Whatevs!  Even if I knew he didn't like spinach (I blame his poor communication skills more than my poor memory), I'd still throw it in there... maybe just not so much.

Anyway, add the spinach (mushrooms, too!), and stir away until the spinach starts to wilt.  Then take some no boil lasagna noodles (I know, a refined carb - bad!- but I only used about 4 sheets for the entire dish, and it easily serves 4-6 people, so you're not getting nearly as much as in a traditional lasagna, so shush), break them into pieces, and bury them in the skillet under all the juicy goodness.

OK, so now I decided to make it a 2 pot meal, but you don't need to.  You could top it with mozzarella slices at this point and call it a day.  But I got the idea to make a little béchamel, like in my mom's famous lasagna.  So I made a roux (equal parts fat and flour - some people use more fat than flour, but this is how I was taught, and it works for me), whisked in some milk, added a little salt and nutmeg and let it hang out until good and creamy-thick.

I drizzled some of the béchamel over the mixture and tossed a few small slices of mozzarella on top.

Pop it in the oven for about 12-15 minutes until deliciously bubbly and the noodles are soft.  Take it out and hit it with some crushed red pepper flakes.  Let it stand for another 10 minutes before cutting into it.  This was another "Dang!" moment.  So flavorful, so oooey-gooey good.  This is comfort food at it's best, my friends.  And a whole lot easier than making a traditional lasagna.  I even got a mumbled, "Thanks, Aunt Suzie, that was really good."  High praise from a 15 year old who just wants to get back to his video game as quickly as possible.  I'll take it.

Go on, you know you want to....

Deconstructed Lasagna
Serves 4-6

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 lb. grass-fed ground beef
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
pinch each: sea salt and freshly ground nutmeg1 1/2 cups chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper
1 28-oz can whole tomatoes, and their juice
1 15-oz can diced, fire roasted tomatoes, and their juice
1/2 cup part skim ricotta
4 cups baby spinach
4 no boil lasagna noodles, broken into 4 pieces each
4ozs fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

• Preheat oven to 400.
• Heat oil in large cast iron skillet over medium high heat. 
• Add beef, breaking it up with wooden spoon, and cook until just a little pink remains.
• Meanwhile start the béchamel:  melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Whisk in flour, stirring until smooth.  Cook until lightly golden, about 4-5 minutes.  Slowly whisk in the milk (if you put it in to quickly you'll get lumps), and continue stirring until smooth.  Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often for about 8 minutes (longer is better).
• When beef is almost done (some pink still remains), add the onions and continue cooking, stirring occasionally for an additional 3-5 minutes until onions begin to soften, and no pink remains in beef.
• Add garlic, basil, oregano, salt and pepper and cook an additional 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Reduce heat to medium and add tomatoes and their juices, stirring to combine.
• Stir in ricotta.
• Fold in the spinach and cook, turning the spinach into the hot mixture, until wilted.
• Bury the broken noodles into mixture, fully immersing them in the liquid.
• Drizzle some béchamel (some or all) over the mixture and dot with mozzarella slices.
• Place skillet in oven and bake, uncovered, 12-15 minutes until bubbly and noodles are cooked.
• Remove from oven, sprinkle with red pepper flakes and let stand 10 minutes.

so glad I have leftovers.....

Cook Happy!

Romanesco Soup

Baby, it's coooold outside!  When the temperature drops, my thoughts turn to soup.  I went to the farmers' market on Sunday and found a few things that I wanted to play around with.  One of those was a Romanesco cauliflower (sometimes called Romanesco Broccoli or Roman Broccoli).  I've seen it over the years, but never worked with it before - and I was in one of those moods......

Romanesco is an edible flower from the same family as broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts. But it's much cooler looking (unless you're my friend Michael who's creeped out by it).  I thought of just sautéing it or roasting it with some olive oil and lemon, but that's a little boring.  And then it got so cold today, and I had soup on the brain.  I use regular cauliflower for soups when I cook for people who are lactose intolerant, because it makes the soup creamy, without the use of cream, so I knew this would make a velvety soup, with a nuttier, softer taste than cauliflower.
So I'm in!

Whenever I'm winging it, I always think about what flavors will go with the main event.  Some things naturally go together.  I made a list of everything that came to mind: leeks, celery, garlic, lemon, dill, curry (could go in so many different directions), coconut.  And a plan started to come together.  With my trusty notebook in hand, I went to work....

 First things first, you have to thinly slice your leeks, and then pop them into a bowl of water to get rid of any dirt inside.  People ask me all the time about leeks and green onions, and which parts you can use.  With green onions (I call them scallions, just to bug my friends) you trim the very ends and you can use the whole thing.  However, only the white and light green parts of leeks should be used, though the dark green stalks are great to add to your homemade stock.

 Cut up the Romanesco into small florets, trying to keep uniform sizes so that they cook evenly.

I sautéed the leeks and celery, then added some garlic.  In goes the Romanesco and a small Yukon gold potato (extra creaminess).  Then I added 4 cups of chicken broth.  If you want to keep it vegetarian, you can use vegetable broth, but I really like the little bump of flavor you get from the fat of a chicken broth (oh come on, fat is your friend - as long as you don't spend too much time together!).

 

This is usually my approach to making a soup, if I'm making it up as I go along.  I save the additional seasoning until after I puree it, and then I can play around with different ideas.  I take a little bit of soup in a bowl and add different herbs, spices, acids and see what I like, this way I don't run the risk of messing up the whole pot of soup.  The curry powder was a little heavy for me, and the dill took away from the flavor.

 

I wanted to keep it bright, so I landed on apple cider vinegar, lemon zest and goat yogurt (gives a nice tangy punch, and most people who are lactose intolerant can handle goat milk/cheese/yogurt.  It's very close to mother's milk, so our bodies can accept it better than cow dairy).   

 

Now, when I think of soup, I often think of grilled cheese sandwiches (OK, not doing this for my lactose intolerant clients).  It's the comfort thing, I guess.  And it works!  Today I whipped up a grown up version: melted brie, apple and rocket on sourdough with a hit of Dijon mustard.  Oh BABY! 

 

When was the last time you tried something new?  Ready to branch out?  Give this soup and sandwich combo a try.....and you can thank me later.

 

 



 

Romanesco Soup

Serves 6

 

1 1/2 tablespoon coconut oil

2 leeks, trimmed, thinly sliced and cleaned

1 stalk celery, chopped

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 lb. Romanesco cauliflower, cut into florets

1 cup chopped Yukon gold potato (about 1 medium)

4 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoons plain goat yogurt

2 teaspoons lemon zest

2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

• Heat coconut oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat.
• Add leeks and celery and saute, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, until softened.
• Add garlic and sauté one more minute.
• Add Romanesco and potato and stir to coat.  Cook an additional 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Add broth and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes until Romanesco is tender.
• Working in batches if necessary, puree soup in blender.
• Add yogurt, lemon zest, apple cider vinegar and salt.  Puree again to combine.
• Taste and season with additional salt if desired.

 

 

Yum it up!