Monday, December 9, 2013

Roasted Grape & Pancetta Risotto

I went to the farmers' market the other day (one of my favorite things to do) and met a farmer who still had grapes.  He told me that in Northern California we have about one more month of red seedless grapes, so I bought a bunch.  I like to eat seasonally (have you heard?), so when I hear or know that I have months to wait for a sweet taste of something, I have to try to get it while I can.

Here's the other thing about me: I like to do things out of the ordinary with the food I buy.  Not always, but sometimes.  And this was one of those times. I bought enough grapes to just enjoy them as they are, to freeze them on a sheet pan for a little frozen treat later, but I was still left with about a pound.  What to do?


Roast them!
 
 
I know it sounds weird, but why not?  I roast veggies all the time to bring out all the sweet loveliness, but what would happen if you roasted some fruit?  Well it just brings out even more sweetness, and gives it a little bit of earthiness, too.
 
 
Now what to do with them?  It's cold, I need a little comfort food, so...... risotto.
 
 
People seem to be intimidates by risotto.  Not sure why.  Did someone give us the idea that it was really hard, so we would end up paying top dollar for it in restaurants and be impressed by it when people cooked it for us???  It's actually really easy.  But it does take some patience and attention - you know one of those is not high up there in my wheel house (guess which one!?).  But if I can do it, you surely can!
 
 
I always start risotto with butter and olive oil.  Then I add chopped onions and garlic.  This time I also added pancetta.
 


 
 
Next comes the Arborio rice.  I add it to the skillet and let it toast for a few minutes, stirring it every once and a while.  Oh yeah, here's a thing:  I used to cook my risotto in a large saucepan.  Not sure why, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.  My mom questioned my method (but then when doesn't she?), and said she uses a skillet.  Thankfully she doesn't read my blog (somehow to "techie" for her), so I can safely say... shhhhhh...she was right.  Use a skillet.  I like to use my cast iron (of course).  It provides a nice even heat and lets all of the Arborio have a chance to swim around in the broth you're about to add.
 
 
 
Now most people will add wine here, before adding the broth.  And I used to do that too (of course you're going to do what everyone else does).  But a couple summers ago I was doing a demo at the Union Street Festival in San Francisco and was testing one of my risotto recipes over and over to get it right.  A chef friend I knew suggested that I skip the wine and add vinegar at the very end.  I tried it, and it was genius (and delicious!).  So skip the wine (save it to drink!), and start adding broth.
 
 
 
You want to be sure that your broth is warm; keep it at a simmer in a pot next to your skillet.  Start with a cup once your rice is nice and toasty, and you continue to add a cup as the liquid evaporates.  This whole process will take from 30-45 minutes.
 
 
You want to wait until the liquid is completely evaporated before you start adding another cup Here's where it helps to be ambidextrous, which I'm not (if I try to stir the risotto with my left hand, most of it ends up on the stove top).  You have to stir constantly . Again, I learned this through trial and error.  Well, more error than trial.  That same chef friend I knew, who told me about the vinegar in lieu of wine trick, also taught me that if I stir my risotto constantly (instead of during commercials), I get a much better, creamier consistency.
 
After about 30 minutes you can see it really come together; it's getting creamier, the rice is puffing up, and if you taste it, it's almost there, just a little "toothy" (my super fancy culinary term for "almost done").  That's when I add a little half and half and cheese - this time I used Gruyere, but you can use any hard cheese like Parmesan or Asiago.
 
And because I like to introduce color (and fiber) into my dishes, I added some baby spinach, too.
 
 
After the spinach wilts, I add a hit of apple cider vinegar and fold in the roasted grapes.  The sweet of the grapes marries so beautifully with the saltiness of the pancetta. I just had to hit it with a little freshly cracked pepper (OK and a smidge of salt - I can't help it!)
 
This is happiness in a bowl, my friends.....
 
 
Roasted Grape & Pancetta Risotto
Serves 4
 
1 lb. red seedless grapes, halved
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 oz. pancetta, chopped
6 cups vegetable broth
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 cup half & half
1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Sea salt & pepper to taste
Chopped chives for garnish
  • Preheat oven to 400.
  • Placed grape halves on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes.  Remove from oven and set aside.
  • Heat oil and butter in a large skillet over medium high heat.
  • Add onion and sauté 5 minutes until lightly softened.
  • Meanwhile bring broth to a simmer in a saucepan over medium low heat, and keep at a low simmer.
  • Add garlic to onions and continue cooking, stirring occasionally for 1 minute.
  • Add pancetta and stir to combine.  Continue cooking, stirring often for 2-3 minutes.
  • Add rice and stir to coat.  Let toast, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes.
  • Add a cup of hot broth to skillet and stir constantly until liquid is absorbed.
  • Add another cup of broth when all liquid is absorbed and continue stirring.
  • Repeat this process until rice is puffy and tender,
  • Stir in half and half and roasted grapes and cook an additional 3 minutes.
  • Add cheese and stir to combine.
  • When cheese is melted into the rice, add vinegar.
  • Season to taste with salt and pepper
  • Garnish with chopped chives.
 
Cook Happy!


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